Budapest’s Striking Contrasts Await on a Weekend Escape to the City of Bridges

Budapest deftly straddles old and new. The Central European capital has emerged from its dramatic past as a modern, confident city, yet one that is fiercely proud of its traditions. Explore Budapest’s striking contrasts by devoting the weekend to local delicacies, cultural rituals and intriguing architecture.

As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.

Friday: Must-Sees, Classic Eats and Sundowners

Before wandering the pretty streets of Budapest’s District V, settle in for an early lunch at Café Kör, where vaulted ceilings and arched windows infuse the space with an elegantly retro air. The dapper servers will steer you toward the daily specials, including velvety főzelék, a vegetable stew (the green bean variety is a house favorite) strewn with meatballs.

Once fortified, meander up to the Hungarian Parliament Building. This neo-Gothic masterpiece, completed in 1902, houses the ornate Holy Crown of Hungary, first worn by St. Stephen, the first king of Hungary, and feels as if it belongs in a fairy tale.

Nearby St. Stephen’s Basilica is another impressive monument. Atop the neoclassical building is a cupola that provides panoramic views of Budapest.

Must-see attractions out of the way, it’s time for a pick-me-up at Gerbeaud. Arguably the city’s most famous café, with roots that date back to 1858, Gerbeaud’s namesake dessert — a melding of ground walnuts, apricot jam and dark chocolate — is what to savor amid the backdrop of sparkling chandeliers.

Then, for a glimpse into the burgeoning Hungarian design scene, pop into Mono Art & Design to scope out the likes of fashionable ceramics, handbags and jewelry.

A gin and tonic, starring made-in-Hungary Opera Gin, is a good way to begin winding down for the day, especially when it’s coupled with a gorgeous view over the Danube River from DNB Budapest, inside the Budapest Marriott Hotel.

Both will prime your palate for dinner at Babel, where ever-changing tasting menus might kick off with such fancy snacks as petite pear and roasted duck liver tarts.

Saturday: Arts in Buda, Dinner in Pest

A full immersion in Buda, on the other side of the Danube from Pest, kicks off with a breakfast of Hungarian scrambled eggs at Czakó Kert, a rustic-barn-turned-bistro complete with farmers market.

From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the Castle District and the Hungarian National Gallery, the former Royal Palace of Buda. Special exhibitions are always a thrill here, but the permanent collection is a chance to become acquainted with greats like the pioneering modern Hungarian painter Pál Szinyei Merse.

Not far is Castle Hill, where another essential stop is Fisherman’s Bastion. Adjacent to Matthias Church, this neo-Romanesque lookout terrace offers a dazzling panorama of Budapest below. Follow it up with krémes, a cube of cream flanked by flaky pastry, at Ruszwurm Cukrászda, an old-timey confectionery.

After a stroll through Tóth Árpád Sétány, a hushed, verdant promenade, drop by Várfok Galéria. The edgy contemporary gallery puts artists like Herman Levente and Kata Gaál in the spotlight.

Back in Pest, dinner is at sleek, ingredient-driven Laurel Restaurant, which revolves around tasting menus featuring dishes like vegan caramelized onion soup topped with confit artichoke foam and Hungarian Mangalica pork paired with buckwheat and miso.

A short walk away, a nightcap — make it the namesake red wine from the native Hungarian kadarka grape, reminiscent of pinot noir — awaits at the cozy Kadarka Wine Bar.

Sunday: Music, Architecture and a Swank Nightcap

Freyja croissants, stuffed with fillings that run the gamut from the best-selling creamy pistachio to cherry-chocolate, have become a cult favorite among locals. Start your day tucking into one at Freyja’s District VII location (there’s another outpost in Buda); then walk or drive 1.2 miles (2 kilometers) to see the gleaming, recently opened House of Music Hungary, an ode to sound by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto.

It’s located in the city’s main sprawling park, Városliget, where you will also want to brave the crowds to dip into the gurgling waters of Széchenyi Thermal Bath.

Once you’ve dried off, make your way over to the newly revamped Hungarian State Opera House. The spruced-up neo-Renaissance landmark, designed by prominent 19th-century Hungarian architect Miklós Ybl, is worth a peek.

The cultural allure continues with a look at the neighboring Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center and Mai Mano House, which put Hungary’s rich photography legacy in the spotlight.

Share plates of eggplant perked up by jalapeño and ponzu sauce, mango-coriander tuna tartare and rhubarb-pistachio duck breast at the brasserielike Fleischer Restobar.

But the magic all comes to a finish at the dimly lit Black Swan Lab. The swank cocktail bar mixes enchanting 1920s and ’30s vibes with imaginative drinks, including the savory Beauty and the Beast (pineapple, black tea, soy sauce, poppy seed), an aptly transporting finale.