Sitting astride the Danube River as it makes its way to the Black Sea, Budapest is one of central Europe’s most captivating cities. The river separates the two distinct halves of the Hungarian capital: Older Buda, on the hilly west, has retained its cobbled streets and medieval architecture, while more modern Pest, on the flatter east, has grand boulevards and a feel of the belle epoque.
Here’s how to discover both sides on a unforgettable three-day weekend getaway. As always, check for travel guidelines and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Savor Hungarian Coffee Culture and Views of the Danube River
There is no finer introduction to Budapest than to walk along the great blue river that runs through it. Winding through the Hungarian capital on its way from Germany to the Black Sea, the Danube connects many of the city’s major sights.
On your first day, keep to the Pest side and start the morning at the 19th-century Great Market Hall. Pick up local delicacies such as paprika, black truffles and Hungarian wine at one of the stalls beneath its neo-Gothic ceiling, before heading north along the river. The stretch between Erzsébet Bridge and the Széchenyi Chain Bridge is particularly lovely, home to a broad cobbled esplanade known as the Promenade.
Budapest is celebrated for its grand cafes, which first drew intellectuals, artists and writers to discuss the matters of the day in the 19th century. Get a taste of the era, and a slice of excellent cake, at the opulent Café Gerbeaud, a short walk from the river. Or opt for a bespoke afternoon tea beneath the domed glass ceiling of the Kupola Lounge at the The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest or have coffee at the grand, historic Matild Café.
Afterwards, continue north along the river to take a tour of the ornate Hungarian Parliament Building. The gilded, frescoed Grand Staircase is a particular highlight.
To see the Parliament Building at its most attractive — floodlit and golden at night, its reflection twinkling in the water — book a sunset cruise along the Danube, and spend an hour meandering upstream, cocktail in hand.
The best hotels in the city are in Pest, within walking distance of the piers from which the boats leave. Try Hotel Dorothea, Budapest, Autograph Collection with its sleek, modern rooms; the uniquely elegant Matild Palace, A Luxury Collection Hotel; W Budapest, for bold styling combined with heritage features, and a peerless location opposite the city’s opera house; the contemporary sophistication of The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest; or the Budapest Marriott Hotel, which offers beautiful views over the Danube.
Saturday: Dive Into History, Fine Dining and Drinks
Your second day is devoted to discovering the unique, higher-altitude charms of the Danube’s Buda side. After breakfast at or near your hotel, you’ll be ready to make your way across the river on the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, the first bridge to connect Buda with Pest in 1849. At the other end, a vintage wooden funicular with neat gold trim brings you to the top of the Castle District in just over 90 seconds.
A couple of minutes’ walk from the terminal is Buda Castle, now home to the Hungarian National Gallery and the country’s largest collection of fine art by Hungarian painters.
A meander through the cobbled streets of the Castle District leads to many excellent lunch spots, most serving simple takes on traditional Hungarian cuisine. Déryné offers something more elevated, with dishes such as wagyu beef and oysters served in its upscale bistro-style setting.
Continue to Trinity Square and Matthias Church. Once used for the coronation of Hungarian kings, the medieval building was refashioned in the 19th century and has an extraordinary tiled roof. After you’ve enjoyed the vaulted interior and the religious relics it contains, head across the square to the covered walkways of Budapest’s former fort, Fisherman’s Bastion, which offers incredible views over the river back towards Pest.
On select evenings, Mattias Church hosts classical music concerts (if your hotel has a concierge, ask them to arrange access). Should your trip dates not coincide with a concert, cross back over the river for an evening of epicurean delights.
DNB Budapest takes its culinary inspiration “from the Black Forest to the Black Sea,” serving a menu of central European dishes and wine. Or venture further around the world with the innovative Asian-fusion cuisine of Nightingale by Beefbar.
End your night with a cocktail at a rooftop bar: The Duchess is a “secret liqueur library” with views across Budapest’s rooftops, while The Liz & Chain Rooftop Bar looks over the river and the bridge you walked across this morning.
Sunday: Live Large at Ruin Bars, Thermal Spas and the Opera
Stay on the Pest side of the Danube this morning, taking exploratory strolls around the 7th District, or Erzsébetváros. The region has traditionally been home to Budapest’s “ruin bars,” which took over abandoned buildings at the start of the 21st century. The very first one — Szimpla Kert — hosts a popular farmers’ market on Sunday mornings; join the locals browsing stalls selling regional marmalade, sausages and more.
This district bubbles with creativity now, with many boutiques selling high-end local fashion and design as well as antiques. It’s a good neighborhood to pick up a unique memento of your trip.
Return to your hotel for a spot of lunch and to pick up your swimsuit. One of Budapest’s many attractions is its abundance of thermal waters, which led to the establishment of many spas in the early 20th century, drawing visitors from all over Europe.
Many still remain, including Gellért Thermal Bath, a beautiful Art Nouveau complex, with striking blue tiles, ten pools and various massage treatments. Rudas Thermal Bath is one of Budapest’s oldest, with parts dating to the 16th century; the rooftop panoramic pool is a newer addition.
Complement your traditional experience with 21st-century spa culture by booking a treatment at the AWAY Spa, followed by time rejuvenating in its calming pool.
The last evening is reserved for the grandest experience: a night at the opera. Book tickets at Budapest’s historic opera house, which opened in 1885. The Hungarian State Opera has varied programming, from performances of classical opera such as Mozart’s Don Giovanni to contemporary dance. The red-and-gold, three-story auditorium, with its chandeliers and frescoed ceiling, is as attention-grabbing as any drama happening on stage.
Guests at W Budapest can step out of the hotel and into the opera house’s foyer in the blink of an eye.
A meal at Spago by Wolfgang Puck is a fitting end to both the night and your trip, with its refined ‘Californian cuisine with Hungarian accents’ a perfect finale to the time you’ve spent in this most unique city.
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