For a long time, the southern city of Kaohsiung has played second fiddle to Taiwan’s capital, Taipei. But there’s a laid-back buzz here — small fishing boats and large cargo ships in the harbor are reminders of Kaohsiung’s maritime past and continued importance as a trading port. Look past an industrial facade to see a flourishing arts and culture scene. Here’s a Kaohsiung guide on what to eat, see and do in this exciting travel hotspot.
As always, check for travel restrictions or closures before planning your trip.
Art and Culture
The 3.3-hectare National Kaohsiung Centre for the Arts is the largest theatre venue under one roof in the world. The mammoth white building features four performance halls and an amphitheater, but its design is calming rather than imposing. Dutch architectural firm Mecanoo designed it to mimic the contours of a wave, creating a silent serenity that emanates throughout the surrounding lawns.
The public art installation, Kaohsiung Shui Shui, has a similar calming effect. Shui means “water” in Chinese, and water gushes down like a waterfall from the sides of twisting grey concrete walls, which range from 60 to 118 feet (18 to 36 meters) tall. The most brilliant part is the fog that envelops visitors.
Pockets of green are everywhere in Kaohsiung. A palm-tree-fringed path leads the way to the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts, a four-story exhibition space displaying everything from calligraphy to ceramic engravings that cover entire walls. The museum lies within the Neiweipi Cultural Park, a sprawling, biodiverse urban green space on former wetlands that features a stunning sculpture park.
And in Yancheng District, The Pier-2 Art Center is a cluster of abandoned industrial warehouses converted into art galleries, with walls splattered with colorful street art.
History
Zuoying District’s iconic Lotus Pond is a floating fairy tale with a colorful history to match its blooming lotus flowers and 20 elaborately designed temples, each devoted to a different deity. It dates back to the 15th century, though the temple complex as it is today has been around since 1951.
Footpaths encircle the 42-acre lake, allowing visitors to explore each distinct corner. Don’t miss the enormous Dragon and Tiger pagodas. It’s said that entering from the dragon’s mouth and exiting from the tiger’s brings good fortune.
The Kaohsiung Museum of History by the Love River also stands out. The lime-green building, constructed in 1939, served as the city hall during the Japanese colonial era. Today, it’s a treasure trove of documents on the city’s history and diverse communities.
For those who love the silver screen, the Kaohsiung Film Archive has a sizable collection of old film reels and posters from famed Taiwanese pictures, and screens movies open to the public.
Shopping
There’s a lot to love in Kaohsiung’s independent shopping scene. Indie bookstore Takao Books has a wonderful poetry collection, as well as books on Taiwanese culture. There are also colorful-printed tote bags and whimsical coffee-table books on offer.
Equally adorable is Abbey Road Record Store. Named after the Beatles album, it houses a Kaohsiung native’s extensive record collection. The sidewalk outside the shop mimics the famous crossing, and inside, black-and-white walls and snazzy-print furniture transport customers to the ’60s. The records sold include Taiwanese music, Western rock ‘n’ roll titles, and rare records. There’s also an onsite café serving up coffee.
While on a hunt for souvenirs, stop by Shinkuchan Shopping District, a lively pedestrian-only district with lots of small storefronts selling clothes and accessories, interspersed with food vendors and vegetable sellers.
Food
There’s much to taste in the Kaohsiung food scene. The city is famous for rice dishes like braised pork rice, which is at its best at the bright and fun Hung Chi Rice Shop. For the equally famous duck rice, head to the longtime classic, Duck Zhen.
Find a banquet hall setting and a no-menu lineup at Old New Taiwanese Cuisine. This spot offers traditional Taiwanese dishes with a twist, as the chef serves whatever is in season or caught that day, whether it’s sea urchin wrapped in lettuce or pumpkin congee. And for another distinct dining experience, take in Taiwan’s Japanese influences at the sleek and cozy Sushi Mikoshi with a sushi omakase meal.
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