Weekend Getaways

Discover Art and Adventure in Bozeman, Montana

by Ann Marie Brown

Photograph by Ann Marie Brown

Person fly fishing in Bozeman

Bozeman is a hot spot of outdoor adventures. (Photo: Getty Images)

Bozeman, Montana’s postcard-perfect views of the Bridger, Madison, Absaroka and Gallatin ranges are true wild Montana. Everywhere you look you’ll feel the overwhelming presence of Big Sky Country’s wild blue yonder, but the historic downtown thrums with a citified pulse. Brick buildings house hip wine bars, eclectic art galleries and cutting-edge restaurants.

Though this is the Northern Rockies’ adventure capital, it’s also a place where you could entertain yourself with beguiling urban experiences and never break a sweat.

As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.

Friday: Discover Downtown

Start your weekend in Bozeman with Jam!’s reinvented version of the classic Western breakfast. There will likely be a line of hungry diners trailing down Main Street, but the promise of blueberry-ricotta pancake and eggs Benedict with crab makes it worth putting your name on the list.

After fueling up on carbs and caffeine, set out to explore downtown Bozeman’s brick-lined, historic heart.

Sift through dozens of stylish shops: Heyday for artsy trinkets and home goods, Moka Montana for boho-style fashion, Montana Gift Corral for locally made treasures, and Cactus Records for new and used vinyl. Peruse the novels at Country Bookshelf, the state’s largest indie bookstore, or pick out a Stetson hat or handmade turquoise necklace at Head West.

Drop by the hub of Bozeman’s thriving art scene, the Emerson Center for the Arts & Culture, where 30 art studios and galleries are packed with made-in-Montana sculptures, pottery, paintings and glasswork. The center hosts artists’ talks, literary events and art walks.

More galleries are found downtown: Step into Altitude Gallery, Visions West Contemporary or Montana Trails Gallery to admire paintings and sculptures made by Montana’s talented creatives.

Much of Bozeman’s youthful energy comes from Montana State University, located just southwest of downtown. Visit its mountain-view campus to explore the Museum of the Rockies, a Smithsonian-affiliated institution famous for its Siebel Dinosaur Complex.

Dino scientist Jack Horner — who consulted on the Jurassic Park films — curates the museum’s world-class collection of dinosaur bones, which includes a mounted Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton and the bones of Big Al, a nearly complete allosaurus that lived during the Jurassic Period.

Even if paleontology isn’t your thing, you can pore over the museum’s Yellowstone exhibition or catch a stellar performance in the Taylor Planetarium’s 40-foot dome.

Steak and fries with red wine
You can’t go wrong with a classic steak dinner. (Photo: Getty Images)

Bozeman’s culinary scene prides itself on a farm-to-table standard. Taste the freshness at downtown’s Open Range, where chefs prepare cast-iron-seared bison, elk, pork and beef and serve it with seasonal, hyper-local produce. You can’t go wrong with a Montana-raised steak, but be prepared: The 16-ounce “Wickens Ranch Rib-Eye” demands a hearty appetite.

Saturday: Hit the Slopes and Trails

Is it winter? Then Bozeman’s slopes are calling. A half-hour from downtown, Bridger Bowl Ski Area is revered for “cold smoke” snow, the fluffiest and driest powder.

This low-key resort has no glitzy restaurants or cutesy boutiques — just 2,000 acres of delightfully uncrowded terrain. Beginners can carve turns on smooth corduroy while experts tackle the Ridge, a mecca of steep chutes and rock cliffs.

Bozeman also benefits from its proximity to Montana’s biggest ski hill, iconic Big Sky. At this four-season mega-resort, winter is all about hard-charging skiing and snowboarding, but non-skiers can opt for non-vertical adventures—ice-skating, fat-tire snow biking or tubing.

When the snow melts and summer arrives, Big Sky offers mountain biking and zip lining thrills. Closer to town, snowshoers and cross-country skiers glide through the frosty wonderland at Crosscut Mountain.

You could easily argue that the best Rocky Mountain adventures require the least amount of gear. In summer or fall, hike the Gallagator Trail, an old railroad right-of-way alongside Bozeman Creek, or get a cardio workout and broad panorama of Bozeman and Bridger Canyon on the hilly trek to the College ‘M’ Trail (for Montana State University).

For a mellow, no-sweat stroll, head to the Palisades Falls Trail in Hyalite Canyon. A paved, wheelchair-accessible pathway leads to an 80-foot waterfall that crashes to the valley floor in a cloud of misty spray.

Person fly fishing in river in Bozeman
Try your hand at fly fishing while in town. (Photo: Getty Images)

If you’re a fly-fisher (or aspire to be), take your pick from blue-ribbon trout waters like the Gallatin and Madison rivers. First-timers will benefit from expert know-how: Local guides from Montana Angler, the River’s Edge or Montana Troutfitters can help you perfect your backhand cast.

When evening falls, join the locals at Feast Bistro. Most Bozeman eateries focus on bison, elk and beef, but Feast boasts an adventurous global-fusion menu and a dazzling raw bar. Score a table in the hip, industrial-chic dining room and enjoy sustainably harvested seafood in the form of miso-honey salmon, lobster and grits or seared diver scallops.

Sunday: Dive Into Local Culture

This morning, take a tour of Bozeman’s artisan coffee scene. Sip and compare espresso shots at a few of the many local roasters located in town. Sample the goods at Rockford Coffee Roasters — while you’re there, order a house-made biscuit sandwich filled with a freshly poached egg, cheddar cheese and country ham.

With your mind sharp from the coffee, stretch your brain’s boundaries. Bozeman’s most unexpected treasure is the American Computer & Robotics Museum. Despite being 1,000 miles from Silicon Valley, tech geeks feel right at home among these thought-provoking exhibits. Learn about humans’ long journey from the abacus to the smartphone.

See the world’s earliest writing system via Mesopotamian cuneiform tablets, the original pocket calculator and a World War II Enigma Machine used to encode messages. Even if you’re not a digital devotee, it’s fun to search for your first PC among the computers and mainframes — there’s even a 1976 Apple 1 and a 1984 Macintosh SE.

Next, take a peek into the Gallatin History Museum, housed in Bozeman’s 1911 county jail.

Exhibits provide a glimpse into the region’s past, including an 1870s homesteaders cabin, an 1880s fire engine and a gallows that was used to hang prisoners (that’s how punishment was meted out in the Old West). More cheerful displays contain vintage wedding dresses and toys that children brought to Montana on an 1860s wagon train.

Visit Madison Buffalo Jump State Park, about 35 minutes outside of town, to get a fuller sense of Bozeman history. For thousands of years, Indigenous people used the limestone cliffs to hunt buffalo, a critical source for food, clothing and shelter, by chasing members of a herd off the ledge.

Discover interpretive displays as you walk in the footsteps of tribes including the Dakota, Lakota, Nez Percé, and Shoshone.

Grizzly Bear up close
Bozeman is filled with wildlife. (Photo: Getty Images)

Then, spend an hour learning about Rocky Mountain wildlife at the Montana Grizzly Encounter, a sanctuary that houses rescued grizzly bears who were born in captivity and can’t be released into the wild.

Or experience the area’s famous healing water with a visit to Bozeman Hot Springs for a soak in liquid nirvana. This rustic resort, with 12 indoor and outdoor pools fed by underground springs, has been soothing travelers’ weary bones for more than a century.

To finish off your Bozeman trip, circle back to downtown. Kick off your evening at Plonk, a wine bar with a studiously highbrow atmosphere and refined small-bite menu. Snack on charcuterie before moving on to dinner at Blacksmith Italian, a trattoria serving timeless dishes like calamari puttanesca, grilled octopus and risotto fritters.

Cap off the night in true Western style, sipping made-in-Montana whiskey at Copper Whiskey Bar.