Every May, thousands of horse-racing fans and big-hat fanciers converge on Churchill Downs for Louisville’s best-known event: the Kentucky Derby. But this cultural hot spot (and Kentucky’s largest city) has gained ground as one of the South’s best food towns.
There’s so much to discover in Derby City — from the historic homes of Old Louisville to the eccentric shops in NuLu.
And don’t forget the city’s legendary distilleries, where some of the country’s best bourbon ages in charred-oak barrels (plus, some bourbon you can only try while in the area).
As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Explore Downtown Louisville
Start your day with a coffee and breakfast at Wild Eggs. If you’re up for a hearty meal, order the “Kelsey KY Brown,” this eatery’s take on the state favorite, made with sourdough bread, roast turkey, bacon, tomato and cheddar cheese — topped with a fried egg and a rich Mornay sauce.
Next, head to Museum Row in the city center to get started on a full day of sightseeing. Sports enthusiasts can spend a few hours at the Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory to learn about baseball history and the creation of the world’s most famous style of bat.
The Kentucky Derby Museum is another quintessential option, where you’ll be steeped in the history of Churchill Downs and horse racing itself. The six-story Muhammad Ali Center, which pays homage to the legendary boxer who called Louisville home, is also a good choice.
Art and science lovers will want to check out the Kentucky Science Center, featuring hands-on exhibits, popular with kids, and the KMAC Museum to browse contemporary art. For lunch, head to Mussel & Burger Bar to dig into freshly ground Angus beef, piled high with creative fixings, or a steaming pot of mussels.
Later, make your way over to iconic Whiskey Row to learn more about the city’s impact in the bourbon industry. This block-long stretch on West Main Street is the heart of the bourbon industry in the city.
But the spirits aren’t the only draw — the buildings along this street were built between 1852 and 1905 and are an iconic example of Revivalist and Chicago School architecture styles, complete with cast-iron storefronts.
From the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience to the Angel’s Envy Distillery and Kentucky Peerless Distilling Co., you’ll embark on a tasting tour of the state’s finest bourbons, all within a quick walk.
Once the sun sets, head to Fourth Street Live! for a night of dinner and dancing. This dining and entertainment plaza is home to a number of restaurants. Try Pizza Bar for big, New York-style slices and cold pitchers of beer, served alongside buzzing pinball machines.
After dinner, catch a live show at Howl at the Moon or tuck into Hell or High Water, a reservations-required speakeasy with a craft-cocktail list.
Saturday: Take In a History Lesson (or Two) Downtown
Begin your day by grabbing a coffee and self-proclaimed “life changing” doughnuts in flavors like bourbon caramel and maple bacon at North Lime Coffee & Donuts, and then walk through Louisville’s Central Park. The park, designed by one of the architects behind New York’s own iconic Central Park, is where you can either sit and enjoy your breakfast or walk around and admire the gorgeous greenery.
Visit the Historic Old Louisville Visitors Center to join a guided walking tour of Old Louisville, which starts daily at 11 a.m. (Tuesday through Saturday). Your docent will tell you about the city’s rich history as you stroll past the largest contiguous concentration of Victorian mansions in the country.
For lunch, hit up one of the nearby restaurants. You’ve got options when it comes to local favorites: Try Cajun cuisine at Daddy Rich’s, East African fare at Baraka or soul food at Southern Express. Then pay a visit to the Speed Art Museum, which is both the oldest and largest museum in the state of Kentucky.
In addition to the permanent collection and traveling exhibitions, this art museum regularly hosts special programming, including lectures, workshops and performances — from costumed figure drawing to drag shows.
It’s a great spot for art aficionados and those who don’t know a painting from a photograph, as each exhibit tries to draw the viewer in and teach them something about a community or the artist.
For example, a recent exhibit highlighted Kentucky-made quilts crafted between the 1830s and the late 1990s in an effort to showcase the development of the country’s textile industry.
After freshening up, head off to dinner at the stylish 610 Magnolia, where you can dine on progressive dishes from the chef’s seasonal tasting menu. Or simply chow down on a burger and a beer at the Granville Pub, a Louisville institution since 1939.
And after the sun sets, join one of the nightly Old Louisville Ghost Tours for another, spookier perspective on the city’s Victorian-era houses (and haunts).
The city is home to what’s been called America’s Most Haunted Neighborhood (Old Louisville), and tours include personal ghost sighting stories, as well as ages-old local gossip around the storied homes that once housed racetrack icons and bourbon barons.
Sunday: Browse NuLu
There’s no better way to spend a lazy Sunday than shopping in hip NuLu. Short for New Louisville, this small district to the east of downtown is packed with restaurants and shops of all sorts. For breakfast, pick up a coffee drink and grab a few of the best cookies in the city at Please & Thank You (yes, when you’re on vacation, red-velvet oatmeal cream pies count as a breakfast).
Then peruse handmade art, clothing, jewelry and more at Revelry Gallery or clothes at Six Sisters Boutique — or whichever NuLu boutiques strike your fancy. For lunch, try Feast BBQ or Royals Hot Chicken, both highly lauded for their casual Southern cuisine.
After that, sample some of Kentucky’s famous modjeskas (caramel confections) at Muth’s Candies or have a cold one at the Goodwood Brewing Company.
In the afternoon, take a walk through Waterfront Park, where you can see the Big Four Pedestrian Bridge that connects Louisville to Jefferson, Indiana, on the other side of the Ohio River. While in the park, rent a bike from Wheel Fun Rentals and pedal along the waterfront (they even have tandem bikes).
Round out your afternoon with some horseback riding — given Louisville is home to one of the most famous horse races on earth, there are plenty of stables offering rides for all skill levels a short drive out of the city.
Head to the Red Fern Riding Center at Shelby Trails Park if you want to weave through hundreds of acres of wooded trails, creek crossings and hills. The stable offers 90-minute trail rides (which include a 30-minute introductory lesson) for anyone over the age of eight. Keep in mind the center is a 30-minute drive from Waterfront Park.
For dinner, head back to the East District center for a table at Decca, a New American spot that has helped put the city on the nation’s foodie map. And to end the night, park yourself at Garage Bar. This garage turned beer and bourbon spot is a great place to plan your next trip to Louisville.
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