Dubrovnik may capture the lion’s share of attention when it comes to seaside Croatian cities, but for travelers seeking to experience Croatia’s exuberant soul, Split is a must-visit. This central Dalmatian city’s denizens practice something called fjaka (pronounced fee-ya-ka), a mindset in which you’re fully present and in no rush to be busy — and visitors can capture this, too.
Begin by putting your mind at ease and enjoy Split’s simplest pleasures: the Adriatic Sea, the Mediterranean sun and the just-pulled-from-the-sea fish found in abundance at local eateries. Next, indulge in the town itself, exploring its historic sights and so much more as you embrace summer in Split.
As always, check for travel guidelines and closures before planning your trip.
Ambling Through History
Start with a visit to Split’s spiritual heart: Diocletian’s Palace. One of the most striking ruins from antiquity, this singular 1,700-year-old Roman emperor’s estate is not your average crumbling Roman mansion.
After Emperor Diocletian retired in A.D. 305, the palace complex began to fall into ruin. But not long after that, the city decided to quite literally move in. Hallways became streets. Bedrooms were turned into small apartments or trading posts. Today it’s an intriguing mishmash of shops, cafés, restaurants and residences amid centuries-old marble and limestone ruins that make up about half of Split’s Old Town.
A marble sphinx (taken for Diocletian from ancient Egypt) lies next to an outdoor café, tall slender white Corinthian columns mingle with shoe shops that flank narrow passageways, and half-standing archways make for dramatic entryways into restaurants.
After witnessing this great wonder of the world, walk along the palm-lined Riva — a short seaside boardwalk in front of the palace — that is the essence of the Mediterranean. Here, locals congregate to lick ice cream, gossip, and do a đir, or dzir, a casual back-and-forth stroll.
The Art of Eating
From the historical center, meander south along the shore until you reach the outdoor Michelin-recommended restaurant Dvor. Take a table overlooking the sea and tuck into creative dishes like seared Adriatic tuna stuffed with foie gras, sea bass pate and pork crackling candy with bacon chips.
Alternatively, try Zrno Soli, or Grain of Salt, which sits on a terrace at the marina overlooking yachts and ferries. It’s no surprise, then, that this lauded eatery specializes in elevated seafood dishes. Feast on white-fish-stuffed gnocchi, Adriatic squid risotto and steamed spiny lobster, among other nuggets of deliciousness.
Or head to Le Méridien Lav, Split where eatery 7 Palms expertly grills up local seafood and meat, while Conlemani — “done by hand,” in Italian — serves up excellent cuisine from that country just across the Adriatic: Italy.
For Art’s Sake
After ambling, eating and diving deep into history, visitors will quickly discover that Split boasts a sensational and vibrant art scene. Galerija Umjetnina, otherwise known as the Gallery of Fine Art, boasts a large collection of European works from the 14th to the 21st centuries.
And if gawking at the exhibits builds up a thirst, the museum has a lovely terrace where guests can enjoy a coffee or a spritz.
Another place to put on your art radar is Galerija Meštrović. Perhaps Croatia’s greatest artist of the 20th century, Ivan Meštrović was a painter, sculptor, architect and writer. He actually designed the building that now houses his namesake museum, which showcases much of his work.
Life Is a Beach
To spend time in Split without lounging on the beach would be akin to blasphemy. For starters, Le Méridien Lav, Split has a peaceful beach that stretches for nearly a half a mile, perfect for getting some quiet time on the strand and in the light-blue Adriatic waters. When it’s time to dry off, guests can unwind and mingle at the property’s stylish Gooshter Beach Club.
For a more local affair, spend some time at Kašjuni Beach. Pronounced “Kosh-yooni,” the beach is covered in soft pebbles, as is the tendency with beaches in Croatia. The beach is a favorite among locals, and there’s also a nice beach bar for when you need a break from swimming in the translucent waters.
And if you’re still yearning for more time on the sand, plan a jaunt to go island-hopping. From Le Méridien Lav, Split’s private marina, you can take a boat to the see-and-be-seen island of Hvar, famous for being the sunniest spot in Croatia.
If time allows, travel to the island of Brač, home to Zlatni Rat, (or Golden Cape, in English), often awarded as the most beautiful beach on the planet thanks to the spit of sand that juts into the turquoise-colored sea, creating the feeling that the beachgoers are pleasantly engulfed by the tranquil waters.
Festival Season
If you’re here during festival season, you can pat yourself on the back for either your clever planning or your luck.
Since 1954, the Split Summer Festival has been entertaining the masses with theater, dance and music performances taking place during a month of the warm-weather season, from mid-July to mid-August.
On May 7, the city celebrates St. Domnius, the patron saint of Split, with daily events like concerts, fireworks, street parties and performances.
Film buffs may want to be in Split during the first week and a half of September for the annual Split Film Festival, which shows the latest and greatest international and Croatian films.
Once you’ve soaked up the local spirit of fjaka throughout Split, return to Le Méridien Lav, Split to experience one more seasonal summer indulgence: the annual Au Soleil promotion, where you’ll cool off with a scoop of gelato or sorbet and then chase the beauty of golden hour, sipping a cold spritzer or crisp glass of rosé.
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