3 Days to Hit the Trails, Visit a Brewery and Rock Out in Asheville, North Carolina

Tiny Asheville, North Carolina, has earned its spot on top foodie destination lists, and for good reason. This mountain town adds new eateries — and drinkeries — every month, or so it seems. And while you’ll dine well (and often), you can hike it off in the Blue Ridge Mountains, which give the area the kind of chill-athletic-hipster vibe felt wherever rock climbers and bouldering enthusiasts convene.

The other energy you’ll pick up on is artistic, especially within the River Arts District, home to 240-plus studios, many of which are open to the public. The music scene is rocking, there’s some seriously grand 19th-century architecture to tour, beer flows at the area’s many craft breweries and, well, are you sure you can’t stay a little longer? 

As always, check for travel guidelines and closures before planning your trip. 

Friday: Go to Town

Start the day with a light bite or a heaping, hearty Southern breakfast, both of which are on the menu at Early Girl Eatery on downtown’s Wall Street. The Vegetable Breakfast Bowl is a vegan treat, while the 12-Hour Slow-Roasted Porky Breakfast Bowl, served with hand-cut home fries and bacon gravy, is just as decadent as it sounds.

Let’s wander, shall we? You really can’t go wrong weaving through the maze of downtown streets, most of which are lined with galleries, boutiques and vintage shops.

Literary types will love the independently owned Malaprop’s Bookstore on Haywood Street, as well as the boarding house that the novelist Thomas Wolfe’s mother ran when he was a boy, the setting for his “Look Homeward Angel” and now a historic site.

Be sure to stop into downtown’s Catalan-style Basilica of Saint Lawrence to marvel at the largest free-standing dome in North America.

And now it’s time to make like a Vanderbilt — specifically 19th-century industrialist George Vanderbilt. The railroad magnate constructed the (then) 120,000-acre Biltmore Estate in 1895, located about seven miles south of Asheville proper.

You can tour the chateau-like home or simply stroll the village the Vanderbilts built around it. Constructed chiefly for their workers (it takes a village, after all), the area is now a destination unto itself.

Stop into the circa-1896 Cathedral of All Souls, the two-story New Morning Gallery, specializing in artisan-made goods, and one of the many in-town breweries (the family-run Catawba Brewing Company is a fave).

And don’t miss the Tudoresque Grand Bohemian Asheville, Autograph Collection, home to the Red Stag Grill, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner and pouring — you guessed it — locally brewed, small-batch beers.

Back in town — and between April and October — join the locals who convene for the Friday evening drum circle in downtown Pritchard’s Park outdoor amphitheater. Whether you bring your own drum, join in on the dancing or just gawk from the sidelines, this freewheeling scene is worth a visit.

Top-rated restaurants include Cúrate, serving award-winning tapas in a converted 1927 bus station, and Cucina 24, which offers Italian dishes influenced by the culinary traditions of the American South and made with ingredients from local farms.

Saturday: Hit the Trails

If you’re going to rise early one morning, make it this one. It’s especially lovely hiking Blue Ridge Mountain trails in the near-dawn light (while enjoying cooler temps, which is key in the summer), ideally stopping first at Hole Doughnuts, where the cinnamon sugar doughnut is a cult favorite.

Now which trail among the 100-plus to choose from? Mount Pisgah is one of the Asheville area’s most distinctive peaks with a trailhead located about 24 miles from downtown Asheville via the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. The 2.6-mile hike ascends 750 feet to an observation platform with sweeping views over peaks and valleys.

For less challenging terrain, check out the Hickory Nut Falls Trail in Chimney Rock State Park, a 1.4-mile out-and-back hike leading visitors to the base of a 404-foot-high waterfall that’s both thrilling and — in warm-weather months — nicely chilling. And after a cold snap, the waterfall freezes from top to bottom, rewarding hikers with a nature-made ice sculpture.

If a day in the mountains means climbing (not walking) to you, there are two rock-climbing options in Chimney Rock State Park. The Rumbling Bald Climbing Access area, for both bouldering and rock climbing, offers what’s considered some of the best terrain in the Southeast.

Novices (over the age of seven) can book two-hour lessons at Chimney Rock itself, conducted by a professional guide. Lesson fees include equipment and there are options for half-day and full-day instruction as well.

You’re going to want to hustle back to downtown Asheville in time for the spectacular sight of a Blue Ridge Mountain sunset, best viewed from Capella on 9, on the rooftop of the AC Hotel Asheville Downtown.

Order a charcuterie board as an app, along with a local craft beer — the Hi-Pitch Mosaic IPA from Hi-Wire Brewing goes down easily — or settle in for supper under the stars, weather permitting (Capella offers indoor seating as well).

You say your legs are tired from hiking? Turn in if you must, but do consider one more stop at a live music venue, many of which are conveniently located around AC Hotel Asheville Downtown on Broadway.

The Orange Peel is an Asheville institution, often cited as one of America’s top concert venues, featuring both up-and-coming artists and musical legends. Bob Dylan, Blondie, Macklemore and Post Malone have all played “The Peel.”

Sunday: Get Your Art On

At this point, you may have already scoped out the place you’ve deemed worthy of your last breakfast. But if not try downtown’s hip Vortex Doughnuts (conveniently open at 7 a.m.) or, if you’re feeling brunchy, Sunny Point Café in West Asheville (we recommend the Biscuits and Gravy or Stuffed French Toast).

The next stop is the Asheville Art Museum (opens at 11 a.m. on Sunday), specializing in American art of the 20th- and 21st-centuries, with a focus on Southern art and craft traditions.

Be sure to stop into the rooftop Perspective Café for coffee and tea from local purveyors (and full meals as well).

And now it’s time for artwork and crafts you can take home with you. It’s one-stop shopping at the River Arts District (RAD), a mile-long stretch of former industrial buildings along the French Broad River. The old mills and warehouses have been converted into a complex of more than 240 studios, most open to the public and some offering demonstrations and classes.

Luckily, there are plenty of places to drink and dine, so you’ll be well-fueled for your foray into the arts. For a RAD dinner, locals love Vivian for its updated Southern dishes and next-level wine list.