Cincinnati is justifiably proud of the way it has revitalized its riverfront, downtown and historic neighborhoods. There’s also a whole lot of Cincy pride for the city’s small-batch breweries, many of which offer inspired food, live music and a rollicking good time, along with their craft ales and lagers.
And that’s on top of the Midwest city’s art, architecture and independent boutiques, all of which make it a destination worth a visit. Oh, and we can’t forget about food. Queen City locals will probably let you leave without trying a Three Way — a famous chili dish — but we’re not making any promises.
As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Explore Over-the-Rhine
Everybody loves a redemption story and Over-the-Rhine’s (OTR’s) comeback is especially gratifying. The neighborhood started as a settlement for German immigrants, withered when Cincy’s post-war suburbs flourished, then made (the wrong kind of) headlines as a dangerous place to live, due to crime and other urban ills.
Credit Cincy for never tearing down OTR’s charming 19th-century buildings — and then beautifully restoring them.
Today, OTR is both a stroll back in time and haven for foodies, hipsters and shoppers. The best place to start is Findlay Market, the farmers market that has continuously occupied the same iron-framed building since 1855, now filled with more than 100 vendors. It opens at 9 a.m. on Fridays and offers your choice of a dozen different breakfast purveyors.
Two bakeries to try: Cherbourg Cyprus (the strawberry scones are amazing) and Tweedles Mini Donuts (who can resist a s’mores donut?).
Once you’ve browsed the market stalls, head a few blocks south to find streets lined with candy-colored antique buildings, now housing vintage stores, boutiques and eateries. Be sure to wander Washington Square Park, peeking into the grand, circa-1878 Cincinnati Music Hall that overlooks it.
If you happen to visit during the last Friday of the month, take advantage of “Final Friday” at the eight-story Pendleton Art Center, where some 200 artists open their studios to the public.
When the time is right, check out a few of OTR’s craft breweries, where beer flows, bands play and cornhole bags fly.
Rhinegeist, Cincy’s best-known brewery, has a lively rooftop bar and serves hearty burgers from the next-door neighbors OTR Chili, making it a perfect light lunch stop.
Then head to Taft’s Ale House, which was built inside an old church (try Taft’s Brewing Company’s Cold Boy Lager). And, for a side order of fun, Pins Mechanical Company specializes in locally brewed beer but adds duckpin bowling, bocce and Ping-Pong to the mix.
Who’s hungry again? If you’re looking for fancier fare, head downtown for a dinner at Sotto, where artisanal Italian food is served, from apps to affogato (and, in between, homemade pasta). In the same building is Boca, offering another inspired menu, this one based on la cuisine Française.
Finally, pop over to The Righteous Room, a lively art-inspired nightlife spot with a stocked bar and killer DJ rotation.
Saturday: Discover Downtown and Roam the Riverfront
Opt for a light bite for breakfast (you’ll see why soon, but, spoiler alert, there’s chili in your future). Downtown’s blaCk Coffee Lounge on Elm Street is a local favorite, as is the Sleepy Bee Cafe, where the Bumblebee (house-made, hemp-seed granola) and Avo Toast are stars.
In the heart of downtown Cincy is the Contemporary Arts Center — a must-see for fans of architecture and the arts. Designed by architect Zaha Hadid, the interiors amaze even before you get to the galleries, with their soaring ceilings, curving staircases and more than 16,000 square feet of open-plan spaces.
And no worries if you’re traveling with museum-averse children (check the calendar for programs for young people) — kid-captivating sound and light installations are often on view.
So, chili. A long-waged war has locals squaring off over who makes the best bowl, Skyline or Gold Star. We’re not taking sides when we recommended Skyline Chili — it’s just that this chain has a conveniently located downtown shop, on Vine Street.
Skyline’s signature dish is called The Three Way, featuring spaghetti that’s topped with chili that’s topped with cheddar cheese (and if that sounds like, well, a lot, consider that The Four Way adds onions or beans and The Five Way adds onions and beans).
If you’re keen to try rival Gold Star‘s chili, note that the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky Airport has an outpost, so you can buy a bowl on your way out of town.
The second stop on your tasting tour is Graeter’s, Cincy-based ice cream makers since 1870. While there are Graeter’s shops all over town (and indeed, in neighboring states), it’s fun to visit the Fountain Square eatery, so you can enjoy your treat in this pedestrian area, the unofficial center of downtown Cincinnati.
Next up is the city’s rehabilitated riverfront, now filled with stadiums, green spaces and places to hop a boat for a ride down the Ohio River.
Start at the pedestrian-friendly John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge. When it was completed in 1867, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world and served as a model for Roebling’s other masterpiece, the Brooklyn Bridge.
Walk across it and you’ll end up in Covington, Kentucky, which boasts a rival riverfront scene (there’s the Newport Aquarium in nearby Newport, for one, where you can stare down, and even pet, a shark). There’s also the pedestrian-only Newport Southbank Bridge, fondly nicknamed “The Purple People Bridge” because of its quirky color.
For another way to spend the day on the river, hop aboard an old-fashioned steamboat operated by BB Riverboats. Or simply wander the walkways between Cincy’s two stadiums — football and baseball — or even pick up tickets for a game, if the teams are home and in-season.
Bikes and family-sized surreys are available for rent along the riverfront and there are a couple of well-equipped playgrounds for kids, and benches to take a load off, for a little rest and relaxation.
If you prefer to rest from a high vantage point with a beverage in hand, proceed directly to the Vista at Lytle Park, the rooftop restaurant atop The Lytle Park Hotel. Settle in around the outdoor fireplace with a craft beer from a Cincy brewery or try the Mele Mule, which mixes a local, apple-infused vodka with ginger beer and a splash of caramel syrup.
Comfy? Stay for dinner, enjoying a flatbread or burger under the stars, weather permitting.
Sunday: Meander Mount Adams
Charming Mount Adams is another historic neighborhood, this one residing on a high hill overlooking downtown, the Ohio River and Northern Kentucky. You’ll be climbing twisty streets and steep stairs, so fuel up before you explore.
We recommend taking advantage of the all-day brunch menu at one of the Taste of Belgium outposts. Specializing in sweet and savory waffles, this Cincy-born eatery also serves up a seriously rib-sticking chicken-biscuit-and-gravy breakfast dish.
The next stop is the Art Deco Krohn Conservatory, where more than 3,500 plant species are on view and, in the spring, there’s an annual Butterfly Show, featuring thousands of free-flying insects.
Next, follow Eden Park’s landscaped paths to the Cincinnati Art Museum in Eden Park, a stately, columned edifice to art featuring more than 67,000 pieces, both modern and historical.
While you’re there, check out the museum’s Art Climb, which ascends 450 feet and offers a panoramic view of the skyline, river and beyond. And grab a light lunch of soup and sandwiches at the museum’s Terrace Café.
From there, it’s a short walk down to Mount Adams’ maze of narrow streets, many lined with antique Victorians and clapboard row houses, as well as boutiques, bars and bistros.
For another scenic overlook, stroll over to Immaculata Church, built in 1859 and known as the Church of the Steps, for its steep stairs down to the riverfront area. But don’t leave Mount Adams so soon — it’s a great place for an afternoon-long wander and an early Sunday supper.
Because we’re soaking up Cincy history, The Mt. Adams Bar & Grill is a good choice for dinner, offering a simple but tasty menu of burgers and salads. The first drinking establishment in Ohio to obtain a liquor license after Prohibition was lifted, the bar’s interiors showcase a collection of antique toys, pocket watches and local memorabilia.
Finally, check out the nearby Blind Lemon Café, one of the city’s most iconic spots for live music, featuring acoustic performances every night of the week, typically blues, rock and jazz.
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