3 Days in Kuala Lumpur: A Weekend of Cuisine and Culture

Kuala Lumpur — also known colloquially as KL — has all the must-see sights, beginning with its skyline. A skyscraper-punctuated city, Kuala Lumpur is home to not one or two, but several, of the world’s tallest buildings: Merdeka 118, Exchange 106 and Petronas Twin Towers. Yet it’s what’s beneath these soaring structures that gives Kuala Lumpur its character and striking contrasts, from the many mosques, Buddhist temples and Hindu shrines to busy fresh-food markets frequented by locals, centuries-old heritage shophouses and Malay villages.  

This ever-expanding city, with a population of approximately 2 million, offers a taste of Malaysia’s various cultures and traditions through its diverse culinary scene. Whether you’re indulging at a Michelin-rated fine dining restaurant, going bar-hopping, or sampling an amazing array of street food, KL is sure to please the palate. 

And once you’ve had a taste of one of the top-visited cities in the world, it’s going to be difficult to say goodbye. But here’s how to make the most out of a three-day trip to Malaysia’s capital city. 

As always, check for travel guidelines and closures before planning your trip.  

Friday: Art and Architecture

Begin the day, as Malaysians do, with a big kopitiam (coffee shop) breakfast near Dang Wangi tram station. Yut Kee, established in 1928, is one of the country’s oldest coffee shops. There’s almost always a queue, so be sure to show up bright and early. Once you’ve had your fill of kopi (coffee), kaya (coconut jam) between buttered toast with soft-boiled eggs, roti babi (fried pork sandwiches) and Hainanese chicken chop, head to Chow Kit Market for a local fresh-food market experience.  

Word to the wise: Wear water-resistant shoes to Chow Kit Market. Malaysia’s largest fresh-food market offers an unmissable glimpse into daily life in the city; here, you’ll find freshly butchered meat, live fish swimming in pails, colorful fruits and vegetables, the sweet smells of a thousand spices, and shoppers bargaining for the best price.  

After that sensory overload, find out why Chow Kit is evolving into an “it” neighborhood by ducking in and out of the cafés and eateries dotting Jalan Doraisamy. For a strong cup of coffee, visit 103 Coffee, Common Grind or Tapestry. Then, break for lunch at Limapulo for Peranakan (Straits Chinese) fare or sample Sri Lankan specialties at Yarl.  

Walk it off by popping into Batik Boutique or Shades to paw through quirky handicrafts and homewares at The Row, a line of 22 pre-war shophouses from the 1940s that now houses independent businesses.  

Afterward, admire contemporary art at Ilham Gallery. Housed in a 58-story tower designed by British architecture firm Foster + Partners, the gallery offers a window into the work of Malaysian modern and contemporary artists within a regional and global context.  

Don’t miss Ai Weiwei’s first permanent public sculptural work in Southeast Asia, Divina Proportione, installed at the tree-lined plaza in front of the building, alongside Pinaree Sanpitak’s Breast Stupa Topiary. There’s also a great gift shop with a small café if you need a quick pit stop.  

A short walk away is Suria KLCC. It’s Malaysia’s most iconic shopping destination for two main, towering reasons — it’s at the foot of the Petronas Twin Towers and offers plenty more to see and do. An evening at Suria KLCC can be centered around family-friendly activities, such as shopping, dining and even edutainment (see Aquaria KLCC, a state-of-the-art oceanarium, and the high-tech science discovery center Petrosains).  

For a relaxed glimpse of local life, go outdoors for a short stroll at KLCC Park — a lush, 50-acre urban sanctuary with a children’s playground, a wading pool for toddlers and jogging tracks, perfect for a family day out.  

A trip here also wouldn’t be complete without summiting the Petronas Twin Towers. Book a timed ticket online in advance — aim for the sunset slot — for this top tourist spot that offers unparalleled bird’s-eye views of the city from 1,214 feet above the ground. Allow at least two hours to explore this architectural marvel and snap plenty of photographs. 

When you’re ready to come back down to Earth, make your way to Old Malaya at Jalan Raja Chulan. At Old Malaya, what’s old is now new again; the row of restaurants and bars has been restored from a century-old heritage structure first built in 1919 to house colonial and Malayan military officers and their families.  

The kitchens here dish out a dizzying variety of cuisines; you might settle in at Canvass for cocktails and Nordic-inspired plates, or with a perfectly grilled steak at Pampas, or at Luce Osteria for an Italian experience.  

Saturday: Historic Neighborhoods

Start the day with a Malaysian staple, breakfast at Mansion Tea Stall. It’s famed for its roti banjir special: freshly made roti canai (fried flatbread) drenched in dhal (lentils) and fish curry, served with a side of sweet-spicy sambal (spicy paste) and topped with two soft-boiled eggs. Pair with perfectly pulled teh tarik (pulled milk tea) with extra foam.  

It’s a 15-minute walk to Chinatown, the very heart of the capital city, which came to be as a settlement for newly arrived Chinese settlers during the tin rush of the 1800s. One of the best ways to experience the charm of colorful Chinatown — also known as Petaling Street — is to simply wander around and chance upon authentic eats and temple sightings.  

Petaling Street Market is a foodie’s pilgrimage; there are stalls after stalls selling snacks and street food like apam balik (pancakes), chee cheong fun (rice noodle rolls), muah chee (glutinous rice cakes covered in crushed peanuts), sweet potato balls and tau foo fah (soybean pudding).  

Chinatown has managed to hold onto much of its heritage and history — by no means a small feat, especially juxtaposed against the site’s sleek skyscrapers — so be sure to claim your culture fix at its many temples.  

Chan See Shu Yuen Temple, a Taoist temple built in the late 19th century, is an architectural landmark in its own right. It has an intricately carved roof, open courtyards and decorative scenes of gold-painted warriors battling dragons, lions and other Chinese mythical creatures.  

Across the street is Sri Mahamariamman Temple, which was founded in 1873, making it one of the oldest Hindu temples in the country. Rising almost 75 feet above this lively site is its gopuram, a tower decorated with colorful Hindu gods sculpted in the South Indian style.

Must-see attractions out of the way, it’s time for a bite — and lucky for you, you’re spoiled for choice in Chinatown. There’s the Michelin-recognized Lai Foong for lala (clam) noodles, swimming in a rich broth of ginger and rice wine. Alternatively, Sin Kiew Yee Shin Kee serves up beef noodles, while the nearby Bunn Choon is a fourth-generation dim sum eatery known for dishing out the tastiest egg tarts this side of town.  

While you’re in the area, stroll down memory lane right up to Kwai Chai Hong, the Instagram hot spot cul-de-sac lined with murals of everyday life in 1960s Chinatown and decorated with ornamental red lanterns.  

Today, the historic neighborhood of Chinatown is home to a thriving creative class. You’ll find art and performance spaces, bakeries, contemporary restaurants championing locally sourced ingredients, third-wave coffee shops and natural wine bars.  

Spend some time at REXKL, a once-iconic cinema restored into an arts and culture hub housing cafés and bars, communal dining and pop-up shops — and on weekends, if you’re in luck, it often has special programming, including exhibitions, markets, screenings, performances and workshops.  

It’s not too late for a self-guided tour of Brickfield’s Little India. Most of the action is along the main road, lined with shops selling bright saris (traditional South Asian womenswear) and the latest in Bollywood fashion, along with sweets, spices and provisions.  

Linger over a cup of masala chai (spiced black tea) and a snack of gulab jamun (fried balls of dough soaked in sugar syrup) or samosas (fried pastry stuffed with spiced vegetables or meat). Or if you’re really hungry, help yourself to a heaping plate of banana leaf rice.  

After taking in the Indian enclave’s sights, sounds and smells, recharge with a massage at any of the centers in Brickfields run by people who are blind. Rest easy knowing that the benefits are twofold: You’re lending your support to skilled masseurs with vision impairment, and your body will thank you for it.  

Next, dive into neighboring Bangsar. From the hustle and bustle of Telawi — with its bars, boutiques and beauty apothecaries — to the more laid-back Jalan Bangkung and Jalan Kemuja, there’s no better place to take the pulse of the city. If you only have an hour, head to APW, a creative industrial space converted from a printing plant, now comprising cafés, retail shops and even a pocket park featuring a lighting installation by Jun Ong.  

Foodies, take a taxi to inner-city Jalan Alor for dinner. Squeeze in with the locals as you eat your way up and down Kuala Lumpur’s famed food street. There are Chinese stir-fries, Malay nasi lemak (coconut rice), satay (grilled marinated meat skewers), grilled seafood and even stalls selling the contentious durian fruit — but whatever you do, don’t miss the excellent barbecued chicken wings at Wong Ah Wah.  

From there, end your night with a cocktail or two at the city’s hippest nightlife hub, Changkat Bukit Bintang.  

Sunday: Explore Malaysia’s Other Capital

Grab a blanket and pack snacks and sunscreen. There are several picnic-perfect spots in and around Kuala Lumpur — but if you want to leave the city in your rearview mirror on a cruisy drive out, Taman Saujana Hijau is a top spot for a picnic only 40 minutes away in Putrajaya, the country’s administrative capital.  

Here’s a tip: To beat the heat, visit in the early morning. The 100-acre park, mostly populated by pine trees with flowers blooming throughout the year, is punctuated by wide passages of lawn and plenty of space to lounge. Pick your preferred botanical backdrop — there are three themed gardens of English, European and Oriental — for your picnic.  

After, if you seek adventure, Putrajaya Challenge Park seems to draw the crowds whenever the sun is out. It’s easy to see why, with a skatepark, mountain biking trails — mountain and BMX bikes are available for rental — and even an indoor wall-climbing complex.  

Don’t miss the pink-domed Putra Mosque. Standing next to the Malaysian Prime Minister’s office, the structure is a beautiful marriage between Malay and Middle Eastern architectural styles, constructed with rose-tinted granite that gives it a desert-pink hue, with cengal (Malayan tree wood) woodwork carvings on doors, windows and panels. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to visit outside of prayer times, though even modestly dressed visitors may be required to wear one of the mosque’s maroon robes.  

As the day heats up, head back to Kuala Lumpur in time for a long, languorous lunch. Chances are you haven’t had nasi kandar yet, the comfort food of many in which a plate of rice is piled high with side dishes of meats, vegetables and curries of your choice; think honeyed fried chicken, giant fish head curry, and squid fried with chili paste. It’s a stoic soul who can stroll the length of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and not tuck in at Kudu, Ibramsha, Mohd Yaseem or any of the other nasi kandar institutions in the area.  

Walk it off with a bit of window shopping at the Golden Triangle, the city’s most famous shopping belt, where glitzy shopping malls swirl around the main thoroughfare of Jalan Bukit Bintang. Lovers of retail therapy can mosey through more of fashion’s hottest brands at Pavilion and The Starhill. Pop by Padini Concept Store for shoes and other fashion finds, Parkson department store for all your shopping needs and The Duck Store for well-made scarves and other accessories.  

By now, you might need a late afternoon pick-me-up. You can find good coffee everywhere in the city, but for a change, get your caffeine fix from boba tea instead. For the boba tea curious, the beauty of boba tea is that each experience is different — at most shops, you can customize everything from your tea base and toppings (basic boba pearls, chewy matcha jelly, taro balls, etc.) to ice and sugar levels.  

Boba tea in hand, skip over to the Urban Museum, or UR-MU, for a glimpse into the regional art scene. The contemporary art museum is located in one of the last residential areas in the Golden Triangle and features more than 100 artworks by local and regional artists.  

Then it’s time for the final dinner of the trip — and it has to be special. Tucked away from the main street, the eight-seat Sushi Ori is famed for its first-rate sushi sets and omakase (chef-curated menus) with seasonal ingredients delivered from Japan three times a week. Meanwhile, over at Lot 10, Sushi Azabu is the Malaysian outpost of New York’s Michelin-starred sushi establishment.  

Alternatively, for a more down-to-earth but no less delicious experience, Lot 10’s Hutong Food Court is a one-stop destination for the best hawker stalls in Malaysia. Char kuey teow (fried rice noodles), Hokkien mee (fried thick noodles in soy sauce), and roast duck rice make the perfect end to a perfect stay.

This article was created in partnership with Time Out.