With its rich heritage and staggering array of compelling monuments that celebrate the past, it’s easy to categorize Paris as a postcard city. But the French capital has evolved considerably, with experiences that demonstrate just how well the city’s storied traditions can exist proudly alongside its many innovations.
There’s never been a better time to discover the very Parisian mélange of old and new in food, culture, and architecture. Passionate about contemporary art? There’s no shortage of old favorites and new museums. Curious about the cooking styles influencing the city today? You’ll find enough choices to keep you well-fed for far longer than a weekend. Prefer to explore on two wheels? The city offers more than enough bike paths to make that happen.
You won’t see or do it all in only a few days, but a long-weekend getaway might just inspire a new perspective on Paris. As always, check for travel guidelines and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Take In the Grand Views, Avenues, and Icons
If you’re going to start with the icons, head north to the top of the hill in Montmartre where the Sacré-Coeur Basilica, erected by the French government and the Catholic church to great controversy in the aftermath of the Paris Commune revolts of 1871, opened its doors in 1914. (The basilica sits on the site where the Commune, quashed with great force by the French government, began.)
Before you head inside or climb the 292 steps to the top of the basilica’s dome, you’ll need to fuel up. Start with breakfast at Two Doors Coffee Shop, a modern spot with excellent pastries, cappuccinos, and pour-over coffees.
Once you’ve gotten your history lesson and taken in the most spectacular views of the city, wind your way down the hills of Montmartre and stop into the former studio and family home of the symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, the aptly named Musée National Gustave Moreau. You’ll find more than 1,000 of his paintings and watercolors and 5,000 of his drawings across every inch of wall space, presented as they were in the 19th century.
Keeping with the theme of grandeur, make your way over to the historic Galeries Lafayette Haussmann department store and its gourmet food emporium, Galeries Lafayette Le Gourmet, for lunch. The store is worth a visit just for the Art Nouveau–era stained-glass dome and gilded ironwork by Louis Majorelle, even if you don’t intend to shop. Across from the main store, the emporium brings together a greengrocer, fishmonger, cheesemonger, butcher, delicatessen, and bakeries and cafes, as well as rotating pop-ups from leading food entrepreneurs.
Eat right there or pack a bunch of goodies for a picnic on the steps of the grand Palais Garnier opera house, a five-minute walk away. You’ll have a view of the monumental Avenue de l’Opéra, which stretches all the way to the Palais-Royal.
Bellies full and already perched at the foot of the opera house, you’ll be ready to take in another architectural and cultural marvel. Head inside for a self-guided tour of the Palais Garnier opera house to see the gilded wonder, best known for Marc Chagall’s iconic painted ceiling in the auditorium.
After a pre-dinner stroll through the lush Jardin des Tuileries, make a beeline to Restaurant Omar Dhiab, an internationally renowned modern spot with ever-evolving menus rooted in fresh produce.
Saturday: Follow the River, East to West
Making sense of Paris means spending time exploring the areas along or near its most important waterway: the Seine. Kick things off with perfectly flaky viennoiseries (breakfast pastries) and quality coffee at Terroirs d’Avenir, an extensive covered food market and bakery located beneath the vaulted arcades of La Félicité, a mixed-use complex overlooking the river.
From there, head west on foot for a few minutes until you reach the Pont Sully, a bridge that will lead you straight onto the Île Saint-Louis, one of two natural islands in Paris. While there isn’t a major monument here, the island houses a lovely neighborhood to explore, home to independent boutiques and the city’s most beloved ice cream parlor, Berthillon, where it’s never too early in the day to stop for a scoop or two.
After you’ve wound your way from one side of the island to the other, head back over to the Right Bank via the Pont Louis-Philippe, then down a ramp for a 15- to 20-minute walk directly on the riverbank, which is reserved for cyclists, joggers, and, of course, flâneurs like you.
Your destination is Maslow 1er, just across the street from the river. This vegetarian restaurant serves small plates made for sharing, with a focus on locally sourced, sustainably grown ingredients. Order a glass of wine or another fun drink with your meal to enjoy a quintessentially leisurely Parisian lunch break.
Take the Pont Neuf bridge over to the Left Bank and stroll west on the Quai de Conti until you reach the Musée d’Orsay, the Impressionist museum occupying a former train station that was built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Beyond the rich permanent collection of paintings and sculptures, you’ll find long-term loans from other cultural institutions and enriching temporary exhibits.
Finally, it’s time to unwind. Directly across from the museum you’ll find a set of stairs leading back down to the river — take it! This is where the evening unfolds. Go Breton for dinner with crêpes and savory galettes at Food Breizh, a rustic creperie kiosk located on the riverbank.
Your nightcap awaits a bit farther along at Rosa Bonheur sur Seine, a floating bar and restaurant on a barge permanently parked within eyeshot of the Grand Palais, Pont Alexandre III, and, if you make it onto the upper deck, the Eiffel Tower.
Sunday: Hang Like a Local in Eastern Paris
Start your day with pastries at Babka Zana in the Marais, just steps from the oldest planned square in Paris, Place des Vosges. Babka, rugelach, bostock, and brioche are among the standout pastries drawing locals to the Levantine bakery, as well as fresh fruit and house-made granola with labneh. After your spread of treats, stroll around the Place des Vosges before making your way to the Musée Carnavalet. The permanent collection (which is free of charge) traces the story of the capital from prehistory to the present day through the lens of more than 3,800 works and decorative arts on display.
Continue your cultural fix several blocks away at the Perrotin Gallery, one of several global outposts for the contemporary art dealer Emmanuel Perrotin, which occupies a stunning hôtel particulier at the back of a cobblestone courtyard.
Don’t be surprised if some of the Parisians you rubbed elbows with at the art gallery reappear at lunch at the nearby small plates, seafood, and cocktails hot spot, Le Mary Celeste. The dressed-up deviled eggs are a must-order, while the rest of the dishes change seasonally.
Once you’ve lingered awhile and chatted up the mixologists, take a leisurely stroll across the Place de la République and over to the Canal Saint-Martin, lined with shops, restaurants, bars, and picnickers who spend hours perched by the water.
While away the afternoon browsing the design and art books at Artazart, the area’s prominent specialized art bookstore, and wandering all the way up the canal, approximately 15 minutes, until it feeds into the Bassin de la Villette.
There, you can ease into a game of pétanque with locals before securing an outdoor seat at the Paname Brewing Company, a craft beer brewery and taphouse with delicious global bar bites and an ideal location to catch vibrant sunsets as you toast to a perfect weekend.
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