History is around every corner in this busy Southern city, which attracts both families and weekend revelers who come ready to lift a pint and sip a strong martini. Savannah’s historic district, which roughly corresponds to the city’s pre-Civil War footprint, is big-screen beautiful.
There are some 20 live-oak-shaded public squares, plus impressive Federal residences and Georgian townhouses with lush pocket gardens on nearly every side street.
Yet there’s nothing precious about this beautiful, buzzy, lived-in place. Some say Savannah, Georgia’s renaissance got underway in the 1990s, around the time journalist John Berendt’s bestseller “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” captured the imagination of a nation and drove visitors aplenty to the city.
Lace up those walking shoes and get a move on. You can sleep when you get home.
As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Get a Heaping Helping of History — and Southern Cuisine
Rise and shine early to explore the Historic District. Fuel up at Clary’s Café, a humble local diner that’s been in business since 1903.
Order a cup of coffee and a malted waffle, then catch a 90-minute Old Town Trolley tour to orient yourself and learn about the history of the city. You can jump on and off at various stops as the route passes by many of Savannah’s historic homes.
Consider disembarking to see the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, as well as the Girl Scouts’ founder’s former home. Check out the Mercer Williams House, the 1868 manse of antiques dealer Jim Williams, whose murder trial inspired “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.”
Another good choice would be the Green-Meldrim House, which served as Sherman’s headquarters when Union forces occupied the city during the Civil War. While in residence, the general famously wired Lincoln, giving him Savannah (and 25,000 bales of cotton) as a Christmas gift.
For lunch, join the line at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, a family-run Southern restaurant famous for its communal tables and homey feasts of fried chicken, beef stew, mashed potatoes and collard greens. Don’t dally: The last tables are seated at 2 p.m., and the restaurant closes on weekends.
Resist the urge to nap by marching straight into neighboring One Fish Two Fish, a chic shop stocked with stunning tableware, upscale leather bags and reverse-glass canine portraits by local artist Kurtis Schumm.
Carry on to shopSCAD, a gallery on Madison Square that sells the work of Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) artists past and present. One street over, E. Shaver Booksellers is a cozy bastion of the written word with an excellent selection of Southern cookbooks.
Walk north through the squares on Bull Street until you reach its terminus at City Hall, a striking building with a commanding gold-leaf dome.
For dinner, reserve a table at the Grey, which is housed in an old bus station and features the elevated regional cuisine of James Beard Award-winning chef Mashama Bailey.
Saturday: Hit the City on Two Wheels
Head to Savannah on Wheels on the west side of Forsyth Park to rent a cruiser for the day. For some sustenance before rolling out, order a latte and breakfast taco from nearby Sentient Bean.
Once you’re caffeinated, take a spin around the 30-acre park, which features a wide allée of live oaks and azaleas, a walled fragrance garden and an outdoor amphitheater. Snap a selfie at the 1858 Forsyth Fountain, one of the most photographed landmarks in town, then pick up some local goodies at the 35-vendor Forsyth Farmers’ Market, open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Afterward, pedal south to the Starland District, an artsy neighborhood around Bull Street.
Start at Back in the Day Bakery, owned by celebrated baker and cookbook author Cheryl Day. Home to some of Savannah’s finest baked goods, the retro bake shop also sells Day’s seasonal, small-batch jams. If you’ve got room in your bike basket, snag a signed copy of her November 2021 release, “Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking.”
Next door, browse the vinyl and quirky taxidermy at Graveface Records & Curiosities. For vintage fashion stop by Gypsy World Savannah. Around the corner in a big, pink Victorian, House of Strut is a wonderland of everything from prim 1940s A-line dresses to Farrah Fawcett-era bell bottoms.
Before you return your bikes, breeze through Foxy Loxy Café’s big red gates for a late-afternoon pick-me-up, which could mean a nitro cold brew, matcha latte or frosty “Lone Star.”
Catch your breath at your hotel before heading out for dinner: Want to be dazzled? Try Common Thread, housed in an 1897 residence. Chef Brandon Carter’s inventive farm-to-table menu leads with a single ingredient, bolstered by a supportive cast of sidekicks: Think raw oysters with apple, sake and Szechuan peppers.
After the meal, find local musicians playing under the stars in City Market’s courtyard.
Sunday: Relax Along the Waterfront
Have a quick breakfast at your hotel, then commune with nature at the city’s 1750 Colonial Park Cemetery, a six-acre park in the heart of the Historic District.
Next up, check out Broughton Street, the main shopping thoroughfare downtown where you can drop by Savannah Bee Company for elegantly bottled local honey. If you’re curious about mead, saddle up to their tasting bar.
Don’t miss the Paris Market, an expertly curated French-style general store. At the elegant on-site café, tuck into pain au chocolat or a simple sandwich.
After lunch, hit up Leopold’s Ice Cream for a double scoop of rum-spiked tutti frutti or lemon custard, both made from recipes that haven’t changed since the shop opened in 1919.
Locals might roll their eyes at the words “River Street,” but you’ll still want to see its cobblestone paths and 18th-century warehouses for yourself. There’s a breezy promenade along the Savannah River for a front-row seat to giant cargo ships and views of the Talmadge Memorial Bridge.
Plus, the neighborhood just got a posh new resident: the upscale Plant Riverside District. Anchored by a luxurious JW Marriott, the soaring retail and entertainment complex currently features a high-end spa, a state-of-the-art concert venue, art galleries and 20-odd restaurants and bars.
For your final night, plan on an early dinner at Crystal Beer Parlor, Savannah’s oldest restaurant and bar. It can get rowdy on game nights, but locals love the place for its comfy booths and generous pours.
Afterward, make your way to Chippewa Square for the Savannah History & Haunts Ghost Tour.
Follow the glow of your guide’s lantern as they lead you under moss-covered oaks and across shadowy side streets. Be prepared to be spooked, as the eerie details of ghostly encounters from the city’s nearly 300-year-old past unfold. It won’t be your average Sunday night, but it will be a proper Savannah send-off.
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