Sonoma County in Northern California is a breath of fresh air, both literally and figuratively. Its lush and lovely landscapes feature terraced vineyards, redwood forests and coastal hiking trails with views over the pounding Pacific.
And, like nearby Napa, it’s also a spot where travelers can experience some of the most celebrated wines in the world, offered by the area’s 400-plus wineries — all eager to pour you a taste from their best bottles.
As always, check for travel restrictions and closures before planning your trip.
Friday: Head for Healdsburg
The town of Healdsburg is an excellent entry point to Sonoma County: It has celebrated vineyards, Michelin-starred restaurants and a splash of Old California. To get started, grab coffee and a doughnut from Flakey Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee Shop, a no-frills local favorite since it opened its doors in 1960.
Then tour downtown’s quaint historic plaza, surrounded by boutiques, galleries and — because this is wine country — more than 80 tasting rooms. Be sure to check out Punch, which is often cited as the best women’s boutique in the county, thanks to its curated collection of clothing, accessories and shoes.
For men’s fashion, stop into Rete California for “casual California” denim and even a cowboy hat.
Next, grab a patio table at Bravas Bar de Tapas, which serves both traditional Spanish dishes and modern tapas. For a more California-centric lunch, try Spoonbar for its seasonal approach to seafood, dishing up P.E.I. mussels and fries, as well as a curried cauliflower steak.
Healdsburg sits at the center of three major wine regions: Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley. This makes choosing which vineyard to visit a difficult one.
You can’t go wrong at the chic and modern J Vineyards & Winery, which offers tastings of its pinot noirs and chardonnays, as well as an art gallery and boutique. Or try the family-owned and -operated Vineyard of Pasterick, which brings guests inside its cave to taste wine, especially its syrahs and viogniers.
For dinner, reserve a table at BarnDiva, famous for its farm-to-table fare and super-social vibe.
This spot was awarded a Michelin star, and depending on the season, the menu might feature hamachi crudo as a starter, followed by Hokkaido scallops and a caramel semifreddo. And — no surprise — the wine list is superb, with offerings from Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Mendocino winemakers.
After dinner, order a nightcap at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails, a downtown Healdsburg bar with a Prohibition attitude. While the cocktails served are plentiful (and powerful), the bar also offers a nonalcoholic drink menu for those looking to skip the spirits (“Duke’s Tonic” is a fizzy delight, fragrant with lemongrass and allspice).
Saturday: Get Outdoors
You’re hiking in the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve today, 850 acres of protected land, where some of the state’s famed sequoias are 1,000 years old. It’s less than an hour’s drive from Sonoma’s town center — and a pretty one, on roads winding through vineyards and villages, depending on the route you take.
Halfway there is the tiny town of Graton and the Willow Wood Market Café, a simple but stylish place serving big breakfasts, including Black Forest ham and eggs and smoked-salmon sandwiches.
Stop at the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve visitor center for maps and advice. There are hikes amid the towering trees for just about everyone, starting with the kid-friendly, 1.5-mile Pioneer Nature Trail and including the 6.1-mile trek along the East Ridge Trail.
Either way, you’ve earned the chance to graze the gourmet offerings in downtown Guerneville, located along the Russian River just a few miles from the park entrance.
For lunch, try the quirky Big Bottom Market, for its upscale take on the BLT (served on the market’s own biscuits, named one of “Oprah’s Favorite Things”) or a smashed chickpea and artichoke sandwich served on ciabatta.
Leave room for a visit to the Guerneville Bank Club, a grand, 1921 bank building that was repurposed to house a collective of purveyors, including the heavenly Chile Pies Baking Company. The place makes from-scratch butter-crust pies (the green apple is a favorite), as well as milkshakes made by blending a piece of pie with ice cream and milk.
While there, wander into the vault itself, as well as the on-site Russian River Historical Society.
For an alternative place to commune with nature, head instead to the Grove of Old Trees in nearby Occidental. This small, 28-acre park is filled with rare old-growth redwoods and features two short trails. If that’s your destination, then lunch is served in Occidental proper at Hazel, a lovely café
where fresh bread, salads, pizza and more are on the menu. Or grab a table at Howard Station Café, an Occidental institution offering organic fare, including smashed burgers, fully loaded waffle fries (topped with avocado, beans and melted cheese) and breakfast all day.
Because you’re in the Russian River Valley, you’ll want to visit one of the area’s 70 or so vineyards — many of which are plotted on a helpful, downloadable map.
Big-name makers include La Crema Estate at Sara Lee Vineyards, where (booked-ahead) tastings are offered in an elegant, multilevel barn — and the pinot noirs are legendary. Or reserve a table at Lynmar to taste a flight of chardonnays and tour the estate’s gardens.
Either way, you’re not far from Main Street in Sebastopol where you’ll find Khom Loi, serving curries, seafood-forward mains and local wine. Always on the menu are Thai dishes with a Northern California twist, including “Aeb Plaa,” black cod grilled in a banana leaf; “Het Paa Naam Tok,” charcoal-grilled mushroom salad; and “Muu Krob,” crispy Thai pork belly.
For dessert, head to Two Dog Night Creamery, a “farm-to-cone” creamery, scooping up flavors such as dark chocolate peanut butter and coffee Heath bar.
Sunday: Go Coastal
There’s one more area you need to experience: the wild and wonderful Sonoma Coast. For breakfast, head to the little town of Valley Ford. Located directly on scenic Highway 1, Estero Café serves an eggs Benedict brunch, along with a robust all-day breakfast menu, featuring locally sourced sausage, eggs and cheeses.
Next, travel north along Highway 1 to picturesque Bodega Bay, about 10 miles away.
Why, you’re wondering, does the town’s name sound so familiar? Think birds. Lots of them. Because this peaceful coastal spot is where Alfred Hitchcock shot his 1963 thriller “The Birds.” (Super fans should make a slight detour leaving Valley Ford to the town of Bodega, where visitors can see the fateful Potter Schoolhouse.)
Angry birds notwithstanding, the “Bay” is a lovely town with amazing beaches — Bodega Dunes Beach is a fave, as is Shell Beach, just north of town.
Stay and swim (or beachcomb), then continue north on Highway 1 as it traces the truly breathtaking coastline, stopping to gawk at Arched Rock Overlook. This stretch of road, from Bodega Bay to Mendocino, is often cited as one of California’s prettiest drives.
You will have entered Sonoma Coast State Park after you leave Bodega Bay and will eventually see signs for bluff walks and headlands. All of the park’s natural attractions are astounding, but be sure to check out Goat Rock Beach, near where the Russian River meets the Pacific, and home to colonies of harbor seals.
You might also choose to watch (or join) the surfers at the nearby, 2-mile Salmon Creek Beach.
Either way, lunch awaits at the waterfront Café Aquatica in Jenner, a little town located along the Russian River. Don’t let the restaurant’s unassuming, fish-shack-like appearance fool you: It’s beloved for its from-scratch baked goods, sandwiches (think pesto portobello and smoked salmon) and occasional pop-up markets selling artisan-made everything, from food to jewelry.
After lunch, go for a wine tasting at Fort Ross Vineyard, properly in Jenner but out in the countryside with views of the ocean. Specializing in pinot noir and chardonnay, the vineyard also cultivates a rare pinotage — definitely worthy of a sip and a savor.
If you’re staying in Sonoma — and for a spirited way to end your weekend — head back to town for a meal at the Wit & Wisdom restaurant and bar at the Lodge at Sonoma Resort, Autograph Collection in downtown Sonoma, where the carefully curated wine list features the best of what the area’s vineyards have to offer.
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